Understanding Different Hair Quality In Hair Extensions?
Corinne Asch- Feb 8, 2017
- 6 min read
We hear so many names for hair in hair extensions. We have basically been trying to label them ourselves, but everyone labels differently and to their advantage in trying to differentiate themselves. Hair companies make up new names for their hair which only ends up confusing us all further. It doesn't help that the hair industry doesn't have a standard for labeling the different types of hair.
So how many different hair types are there?
There is Remy hair, Cuticle hair, Human Hair, Virgin hair, Indian hair, Italian hair, Russian Hair, European hair and hair from China. I'm sure their are more but it's all I can think of right now. To make matters more confusing, there is no regulation on the hair so someone could sell you remy hair, but you may, in fact be getting human hair (a much lower grade of hair).
That's why you need a professional you can trust. A professional who has good suppliers she's worked with and trusts. It's not easy navigating those hair extension waters.
When looking for a hairdresser to do your extensions you are looking for someone who is well connected to good hair.
There are too many new hair companies popping up today and not enough good hair to supply them all. Most of these companies start out with good intentions but after a few bouts of reality they almost always succumb to selling the 'bad' hair. Another reason why I only deal with well established hair companies. I happen to know and understand that side of the business and I know there is no room for newcomers unless they are inheriting the business.Someone new to extensions will waste a lot of money on bad hair before finding anything worth the money, and even then I would wish them luck on their next purchase from the same company. A lot of the hair collecting companies when faced with a potential new buyer will sell them good hair for their first order then when they have the account will send bad hair and save their good hair for the new prospects.
So, what are the different types of hair and what do they mean?
When we (the industry) describe different types of hair we are describing the processing of the hair as well as where it comes from. The processing of the hair is what is most important. I've had gorgeous indian hair and horrible indian hair, the difference is in the processing of the hair.
So often both Indian hair and Italian hair are actually both indian hair but the difference is that the Italian hair is Indian hair that was processed in Italy. Being processed in Italy means it was processed in small batches by skilled employees and the hair was kept as intact as possible (cuticle is intact). The hair chosen for this destination is naturally going to be the best hair of the lot, the rest will be sent to be mass processed in a cheaper way.
What do I mean by processed in a cheaper way?
Hair has a cuticle, and that cuticle needs to face in the same direction (facing down).
If even one hair is turned upside down you will end up with hair that tangles terribly, or hair that 'crawls'
You can imagine how difficult it would be to make sure all your employees are able to keep every strand of hair facing the same direction through color, bleach and blow drying. To reduce on cost and loss big hair companies remove the cuticle of the hair so that it can the hair can go in any direction. The hair is put in a bath of acid which removes the cuticle of the hair. This chemical process is harsh and is the equivalent of doing a relaxer or stripping the hair by bleach.
So, here are the different hair types with their definitions in order of the highest quality to lowest:
Russian hair is the best, most expensive and hardest to find hair there is. It is usually straight, always fine and silky. Comes in naturally lighter colors. Because the hair is so fine it cannot be mass produced and can only be produced to the highest quality standards. It's fine silky texture doesn't allow for an 'acid bath' and cannot have it's cuticle removed. It is collected in Russia and the Ukraine.
European hair- Also an excellent quality hair, is collected all over europe so that the hair can vary from fine and silky to dark and frizzy, so that it is not as predictable as the Russian hair. This is where you would look if you want a very silky but wavy hair.
Virgin hair- Is almost always a very good quality of hair because it is completely un-processed. No color, no chemicals which means it has to be processed in a high quality manner.
Italian hair- Like I stated above, this hair is Indian hair that has been processed in Italy in a small factory with skilled employees. One thing to know is that if this hair is processed in the U.S.(or anywhere) in a small factory with skilled employees it is still called Italian hair. The 'Italian' refers to the high quality processing (Italy is where it started) rather than where the hair is from. (There are not enough Italians to supply hair to the world.)This is the best type of hair to choose for the clients with thicker, curlier hair.
Indian hair- Has been processed well enough, and the cuticle is usually left intact but the quality of hair chosen is not as nice as the ones above. With this kind of hair you will have more frizz and it will be very dark hair to start with, which means if you or your client has blond hair, this hair is going to go through more chemical processes than the hair types mentioned above.
Remy hair- Simply means that the cuticle is intact which also means it had to be processed in a higher quality manner but this doesn't mean that all remy hair is a good quality. There is plenty of remy hair that is extremely poor quality.
Chinese hair- Is considered the lowest quality of hair. Why? Because it is always mass produced, but having said that, it still depends on the processing how good or bad the hair behaves. Chinese hair will almost never have a cuticle and will need to be replaced often.
Human hair- is always a low quality hair (maybe the lowest). It is always chinese or indian at best and has been collected through taking the hair out of brushes and the likes. 'Human' is about the best that can be said about this type of hair.
Most big hair companies like Great Lengths and Hair Dreams mass produce hair so they are more likely to use the sturdier Indian hair because of the heavy processing it will need to survive. With the adage of silicones and polymers the hair will feel great at first then slowly deteriorate over the next few months as the polymers begin to wash off.
That's why some hair lasts a long time and some needs to be changed every few months. It is a lot more expensive to process hair without chemicals, which is why it is labeled the 'expensive' hair. The small boutique hair processing houses are best when looking for high quality hair. Often, you'll find that the the 'expensive' hair turns out to be more economical in the long run. I've had expensive hair stay beautiful for up to 3 years, where as the less pricey hair has never made it more than 6 months for me.
Next read: "how to care for your extensions"
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